Monday, April 21, 2014

Robert Abbey Delta Lamp Knockoff

Good morning! I hope you had a great Easter! Ours was spent at church and then lunch with our extended family. Annabelle got to meet our cousin's 10 week Shih Tzu Cockapoo and was obsessed (she peed a little when they met, that's how you know that she's REALLY excited). Snicker Doodle (yes, that's his name) was a little small to play, but they have a similar playing style, paws to the face and ankle biting .. in a few months, they will be great friends! We also fit in a little tiling in between for #projectentry. It was a great day!

Today I'm sharing my knockoff tutorial from Creating with the Stars, if you missed my post at East Coast Creative the other week, read on. Also, if you want to make my gold geometric lights, but don't have a miter saw, this method would work well!!

When I first saw Robert Abbey's Delta table lamp, it was love at first sight! The shape is amazing, I also love that it comes in a variety of bold colors.


I recently made a few office accessories out of mat board, which got me thinking.. since the accessories were surprisingly sturdy, why not a lamp base too?


The lamp is constructed using a $2 thrifted lamp, a custom designed template - referencing the Robert Abbey lamp, and mat board.

Here's all the supplies used:

materials:

- old lamp or lamp kit
- template
- mat board(20"x30")
- glue
- wood filler
- sanding block (medium + fine)
- wood block (add weight to base)

tools:

- painter's tape
-metal ruler / xacto knife
- drill (optional can substitute xacto knife) 

Here's how we did it!


First, we printed the template (6 of each triangle) (1 of each hexagon). You can download our template, here (print on 8.5" x 11"). I roughly cut the shape out so they would fit tightly on the mat board. Then we used spray adhesive to attach the pieces to the back of the mat board.


Here's how they fit together.


Then using a metal ruler and xacto knife on a cutting mat, we cut each shape out. 


Next, we started putting it together. First, we glued the bottom (shapes 2 + 4) to the base (shape 6). Since the triangles fit perfectly together, they just fall into place. We then used small pieces of painter's tape to help hold it together while the glue completely dried. Using a fast grab glue helps it set quickly (we used Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue). Apply the glue lightly, and rub off any excess.

After gluing the bottom half (shapes 2 + 4 to the base, shape 6) we turned it upside down (the open end down), squared it up, taped it a flat surface and let it dry overnight, this helped keep it square. 

The next day, we started working on the top section of the lamp. We glued shapes 1 + 3, about half way - leaving an opening to insert the lamp inside. The top (shape 5) was held in place with painters tape to help guide shapes 1 + 3, but not glued yet.


Then we we reinforced the seams by gluing from the inside. 


Next we worked on the lamp base, it was a little big to sit flush in the bottom of the lamp, so we cut a few pieces of 1x4 to raise it up a little. This also added extra weight to give it more stability. We used screws to attach the 1x4 to the existing metal base. (we also swapped the existing rod with one from another lamp to get it the correct height) 


We drilled an opening for the cord and inserted the plastic grommet from the old lamp. The lamp was disassembled, the cord was pulled through the opening of the new base and the wire was pulled through the threaded rod.  


We centered it and glued it inside the lamp.


For the top piece (shape 5) we found the center and drilled a hole for the center rod.


Then it was glued in place.


Wood filler was applied. Remove excess as you go to reduce sanding later. It's easier to apply lightly and apply a second coat after sanding, if needed.


Sand the wood filler with a medium grit sanding block, and finish with a fine grit sanding block. At this point, you'll notice how sturdy the base it. I pressed fairly hard and sanded a good bit to make sure that the wood filler was even. I didn't have any issues with it caving in or breaking.


After removing the dust, finish with paint! To cover the top of the threaded rod, we used the top of an old lamp - it just slide over the rod. We then reattached the socket and that was it!

I paired it with Target's large drum shade.


I'm obsessed!! LOVE it!!




Here's the breakdown of cost and time.

Cost:

Thrifted lamp $2 (plus a few lamp parts from other thrifted lamps)
Mat board $3 (20"x30")
Spray paint ~$6 (used about half of each can)
Wood filler / glue / sandpaper $0 (on hand)
1x4 ($0 from scrap pile of Home Depot)

Total $11, ($35 with lamp shade) pretty good compared to the $183 Robert Abbey version!

Time:

Preparing template + cutting out the mat board 1.5 hrs
Gluing mat board 2 hrs
Assembling the rest of the lamp .5 hr
Wood filler and sanding 2 hrs
Painting + drying time 2 hrs

Total 8 hrs, so not a huge time investment!

I'm so glad that we tried DIYing before buying! I love how our version came out!

Friday, April 18, 2014

Friday Five



We got to Maryland around 4 am, so I'm going to keep the Friday Five short and sweet today :)


I recently came across Lulu & Georgia and it was love at first sight! I love the bright and bold pattern and overall style!




the Jameson rug, spotted ikat pillow set, print by every girl, and this side table are a few of my favorites.






Apply painter's tape to get the perfect caulk line! I originally saw this tip on this Ace Hardware video. Brilliant! 





I'm a clear chapstick kinda girl. To me, nothing compares to original Burt's Bees



2014 Creating with the Stars has wrapped! Check out the final results here




Love this accent table from Target! 



Hope you all have a great weekend! Hopefully I'll have tile updates for your next week!!! Wish us luck :) 

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Our Process | Demoing Tile

Time is flying by! We're planning to be in Maryland this weekend to work on our house .. So I thought today would be the perfect day to talk about our experience demoing tile. David did the majority of it since we only had one of each power tool .. so I worked on some other things around the house and popped in to take pictures along the way.

This is our first time demoing tile, so we're not pros .. but this is our process.

First, you NEED safety gear. Eye protection, hearing protection and a respirator. It's messy and loud, so all of these things are necessary.

We were lucky that the room was enclosed, so we just kept the door to the house closed, but if you don't have a door, tapping a tarp to contain the dust would be a good idea.

To get started, we removed the baseboard trim - ours was nailed in place so we wiggled it out using a screw driver (trying not to damage it). We forgot to mark the back as we took it out, so we would know how to put it back, but that would be a good idea :) It's not a big space, so we'll just do trial and error.

Using a hammer drill (David's dad had one we could borrow. Yay!) David first went along the grout line. Next, he broke up the tile - it was easiest to hold the hammer drill at an angle to get under the tile.


Here's about half way through. We used an old plastic bin to hold the broken tile. It's HEAVY, so this works better than garbage bags. It's also good to clean up as you go ..


Once the tile was removed, we were ready to removed the extra thin set. After a little research, we decided to use an angle grinder with this attachment. Looking back, a 6" or 7" would have gone faster and a vacuum shroud would have been helpful since it was MESSY! David had the shop vac nearby and vacuumed along the way.


You don't need to get all of it, but most of it .. you don't want any high spots, but a layer of thin set prior to placing the backer board will help even it out.


Then you sigh in exhaustion .. I snuck this pic in after David finished .. though I'll probably be banned from that now :)


Now that the thin set it up, we were ready to start the new thin set and backer board. Backer board is a sturdy board made out of cement that provides a rigid substrate that prevents the tile from flexing and breaking. Starting in the corner, we measured our cuts .. this was a little tricky since the beams stick out, and they aren't perfectly square. So we couldn't scour and break the board along the provided lines (typically how it's done) .. Maybe we could have filled in the gaps with thin set, but we wanted it as close to the walls as possible. Note: this will dull the blade of the circular saw fast (since it's cement ..)



We cut all of ours to fit and then picked up each piece individually to put a layer of thin set down. For the thin set, you mix it for about 5 minutes (use a mixing attachment on a drill - preferably corded to conserve the battery on your cordless) and let it set for about 10 minutes (Yours may be different, so follow the directions on the package). David got the edges with a smaller trowel and I got the center with a larger trowel.


Wear knee pads .. I get tired of telling David to wear them, maybe this will help remind him :)


Then using screws for backer board (next to backer board in the store) we attached the board with LOTS of screws. The board had pre set spots for screws, we put a few extra in along the edges.

Now we're ready for tile! Hopefully, we'll finish the tile this weekend (realistic?? I hope so :) Follow us on IG to watch our progress!!

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Hump day giveaway | Flamingo Printable

Happy hump day! I hope that you're having a great week! For today's free printable, I'm offering a flamingo print inspired by West Elm's print
Here's a close up
Download your 8x10 copy HERE
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...
Pin It button on image hover